Day 10

Looking back at our Sunday in Kamloops, I see it as a moment of necessary surrender. We spent the morning in a bit of a stalemate, debating how to tackle the grueling stretch toward Banff. Josh laid it out clearly: the road to Salmon Arm was flat enough, but the mountains between Revelstoke and Banff were another beast entirely. My younger self, exhausted by the Coquihalla, was firmly in the 'no more mountains' camp.

To be clear, I wanted to cycle, but where our original planned route which would have taken us through Summerland (and was the 'normal' route cyclists took through the mountains), this route would have been on the verge of irresponsible to travel. In retrospect, looking back over the years, I kind of wish that we had driven south to maybe Kelowna and tried our luck heading down there and taking highway 3. Hindsight is always better.

We entertained wild logistical ideas, from renting a cargo van for a week of 'supported' riding to checking every rental agency in town. But on a Sunday in 2000, Kamloops was largely shut down—no rental vans, no open bike shops, no easy outs. It quickly became clear that the bus was our only realistic option if we wanted to reach the Rockies without breaking our spirits.

To clear our heads, Josh took us for a drive around Kamloops. I still remember the rolling hills and the sagebrush—a stark, beautiful landscape that felt so different from the lush coast. We toured the University College of the Cariboo and enjoyed a phenomenal Italian dinner back at his place. Even with the chapped lips and the tough decision to board a bus, the hospitality of Teresa and Josh made us feel human again. We packed up, ready to trade the pedals for a coach seat and see the mountains from a window for a few hundred miles.

This morning we are trying to make our decision about what to do next. Neither Blue nor our other friend are willing to bike over the mountains to Banff. Josh tells us that the terrain is quite flat between Kamloops and Salmon Arm, slightly challenging from there to Revelstoke, and very challenging between Revelstoke, Golden, and Banff. My friends are willing to ride as far as Salmon Arm provided we can find an adequate form of transportation from there to Banff.

Wendy and I pitch our suggestion that we rent a cargo van and do the trip from Kamloops to Banff supported; we would take turns driving while the others bike. But after several calls, it quickly becomes clear that renting is not going to be economically feasible. So that is it. We end up agreeing to pack up our gear and catch the bus to Banff. We call some bike stores to see if we can get my friend's bike looked at—it is making horrible noises—but none are open on a Sunday.

In the afternoon, Josh takes us for a drive around Kamloops. The hills roll on and on to the horizon where snow-capped peaks can be seen in the hazy distance. He gives us a tour of the University College of Cariboo where he works. It has been another warm, sunny day.