Day 19

Looking back at fifty, I see Day 19 as the moment our trip shed its skin and became something entirely different. We spent the morning in the Gleichen drop-in centre, playing shuffleboard to kill time while we waited for our friend’s medical verdict. When the news came that biking was only going to make his injury worse, we had to make a series of rapid, heavy choices.

We decided to scale back our ambitions, shifting our target from Toronto to Winnipeg. It felt like a necessary surrender to reality. We lightened our load significantly, sending the stove, the cook set, and the second tent home with our friend. The plan moved from wilderness camping to the pragmatic comfort of motels. The transition was made possible by the incredible kindness of locals—Bea, who stayed late at the centre, and John, the carpet fixer who offered our friend a lift all the way to Calgary.

The ride to Bassano that afternoon was short but revelatory. Honestly, without our friend-who had always been less committed to this trip, it felt lighter. The Alberta landscape was a stunning patchwork of green and gold under a sky filled with massive white clouds. The flatness of the road played tricks on my perspective; looking ahead, I could never tell if I was climbing or descending. We ended the day at a motel, where I called the others out to see a sunset that felt like a reward for surviving the emotional weight of the morning. We’re down to three now, and the road to Winnipeg is our new mission.

Perhaps it was always going to end this way. Wendy is enjoying herself, but isn't sure about going past Winnipeg. My knee continues to hurt. We have lost 'carrying capacity'. I think a different mindset would have opened up other possibilities - especially in a few days.

After finishing breakfast, we call Bea and explain our friend's situation to her. She says the centre will not be used until later this afternoon so it is fine if we stay a little longer. At ten o'clock, Wendy and our friend leave for the clinic. To pass the time, Blue and I play shuffleboard and all of its variants. We agree that we would rather only go as far as Winnipeg and perhaps reassess our situation then.

Around noon, they return. There has apparently been some tearing and biking is aggravating it. Our friend has decided to go home. A gentleman, John, has spent the morning fixing the carpet in the seniors' centre and overhears our tale; he generously offers to give our friend a lift to the outskirts of Calgary. We sort through what gear the remaining three of us will need and decide to send the stove, cook set, and the second tent home. Our plan is to keep one tent for emergencies but otherwise opt for motels.

We leave Gleichen on Crowfoot Trail and get back onto the Trans Canada Highway. As we pedal, I notice a road sign that states "Important Intersection Ahead". I find it amusing that there are so few intersections that they need a special announcement. Southeastern Alberta is spread out before us in a bright, patched quilt of green and gold with an enormous blue sky overhead blotched with fluffy, white clouds.

We meet two women riding to promote head injury awareness. We stop in Bassano and find the library; today is the only day it's open, and the librarian kindly stays late for us while we update our journals. Afterwards, we settle into a motel. Blue calls Wendy and I outside to see a spectacular sunset. Today has been one of the most enjoyable days of riding yet.