Day 24

Looking back at fifty, I remember Day 24 as the day the Great Saskatchewan Myth was finally debunked. Everyone told us this province was flat, but as we pedaled toward Gull Lake, our legs were screaming that the road was actually one long, gradual uphill grind. It was a sensory-heavy ride, though; the air smelled like honey, and the ditches were lined with dusty pink and yellow flowers.

The highlight of the morning was the sod house in Tompkins. Walking inside and feeling that natural, earthy cool was a fascinating glimpse into how early settlers adapted to a land without lumber. It felt like a solid, silent piece of history in the middle of a landscape that felt largely empty and expansive.

I wasn't feeling my best that afternoon, and Wendy was struggling, too, but having Matthew with us changed everything. There's a specific magic to a new person joining a group on a long trip—he biked alongside Wendy, keeping her distracted with stories for the final 60km push to Swift Current. We finally rolled into a cheap, surprisingly comfortable motel just as massive storm clouds began to line up on the horizon. Matthew is planning to tackle the full 200km to Moose Jaw tomorrow in one shot, but at fifty, I’m glad my younger self decided to split that distance in two.

This morning it is sunny with a strong breeze from a westerly direction. Marlene arrives to open up the Visitor Info centre for another day just as we are about to leave, so we express our thanks and say our goodbyes. Matthew and us plan to make it to Swift Current so we are going to ride together.

There are still many prairie dogs about but they generally can only be heard scurrying through the grass. The side of the road is lined with aromatic dusty pink flowers. To the south we see a couple small sand dunes. There are many dried up ponds and what look to be salt flats. The railway meanders near and far in relation to the highway. We have seen numerous trains today, or perhaps we just keep seeing the same one.

Much of the area appears to be used for cattle ranching. Just east of Piapot, we stop at a historical marker that talks of one hundred thousand acre ranches. We stop briefly in Tompkins to look at a recreation of a sod house that Marlene had told us about. Inside it is delightfully cool. With a little wood stove, I would expect it to stay very warm in the winter. The walls, which are of course dirt, are very solid and well packed.

We stop at Gull Lake for lunch. Much of the ride is gradually uphill. Whoever said Saskatchewan is flat obviously has never biked across this province. But as we get closer to Swift Current it flattens out making the ride easier. We find a nice, inexpensive motel and Matthew decides to join us for another night. Matthew intends to tackle the entire two hundred kilometres to Moose Jaw tomorrow while we decide to split it into a two day ride.